How to redraw whole table after changing theme?

I'm using ag-grid 29 in React. I can change the style from Balham to Alpine on the fly. My problem: Neither the heard rows nor the data rows are then tall enough. Is it possible to accomplish this?

Here's the "before" - my table in Balham:

Here's the "after" - my table in Alpine. Please note the text overflowing the row height:

Here are the methods I call after the style change:

• gridApi.refreshHeader()
• gridApi.refreshCells()
• gridApi.redrawRows()
• gridApi.sizeColumnsToFit()

The official demo appears to destroy and recreate the entire grid when you change the theme dropdown, by passing a new React key to the grid component:

useEffect(() => {
    const params = new URLSearchParams(window.location.search);
    const theme = params.get('theme') || 'ag-theme-alpine';
    setGridTheme(theme);
}, []);

<div id="myGrid" className={gridTheme}>
    <AgGridReactMemo
        key={gridTheme}
        // ...
    />
</div>

Actual users probably won't change the theme very often, so it's likely not worth putting effort into doing this elegantly. It may be possible to fix everything by calling various functions, but I didn't look in to it.